Rolex Submariner 168000 "Triple Zero Transitional" - *Unpolished*
Year/era: 1988
Reference: 168000
Serial: R59XXX
Dimensions: 40mm wide, 20mm lug width.
Movement: Automatic Rolex caliber 3035.
The Rolex Submariner was first introduced by Rolex in 1953 and is notable for being one of the first watches specifically designed for diving. Beyond its technical capabilities, the Submariner has become an icon in the world of watches, with a timeless design that has remained largely unchanged since its introduction. It is widely regarded as one of the most important and influential watches of all time, and has become a symbol of Rolex's reputation for quality, durability, and precision. The Sub has been worn by everyone from professional divers and military personnel to Hollywood celebrities and heads of state, cementing its place in the pantheon of iconic watches.
The ref. 168000 is a "transitional" era for the Sub referred to by collectors as the "triple zero." It carried some of the best features of the prior ref. 16800 and has an estimated production run of just 7-9 months ('87-'88), making it a rare and collectible reference. The primary upgrade to the model was the introduction to grade 904L steel from the prior grade 316L, enhancing strength and corrosion resistance. A short time later the 16610 was introduced with the same materials but leveraged an updated cal. 3135. This particular example, circa '88 has remained in fantastic neo-vintage condition with a mint/hands showing warm patina. To boot, the case/bracelet both appear completely unpolished which is difficult to come by in this era. The caseback still retains a factory sticker and the bracelet shows very light stretch, retains 11 links and will fit an approximate 7.25 inch wrist. For anyone looking a top quality Sub with an interesting story to tell, this piece hits all the right notes.
Dial: Displays stunning preservation and color. All of the tritium plots have aged cleanly and evenly to a highly attractive yellow patina. No notable blemishes under magnification.
Bezel insert: Has normal signs of use consistent with age. The lume pip is still intact and has matching patina.
Hands: Are matching and their lume is stable. They are a touch lighter than the dial and correct in our view as many examples in this serial range show similar color. Keep in mind than dial and hand production was often separate and with different tritium mixtures.
Case: Appears unpolished with very thick and even lugs. Correct brushing and the edges remain very sharp, as do the lug holes. Factory caseback sticker still present. Correct signed crown.
Bracelet: Correct 93150 with matching clasp code, retaining 11 links. Displays very light stretch and will fit an approximate 7.25 inch wrist.
Crystal: Clear.
Accessories: NA
The movement has just come back from a complete service with out watchmaker. It is running well on our timegrapher and comes with our 6-month mechanical warranty.
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Who You're Buying From
Wes Wynne
In a world of planned obsolescence, a well-made mechanical watch stands apart as something built to last for generations. At CCNY, we're passionate about preserving that legacy by carefully curating exceptional vintage and neo-vintage timepieces from the world's most respected watchmakers.
Each watch is meticulously inspected to verify its authenticity and serviced only when necessary, always with an emphasis on preserving its originality. Through honest representation and complete transparency, we help collectors purchase with confidence and find a timepiece they'll enjoy for a lifetime.
Beyond buying and selling collectible watches, we offer consignment, outright purchase, trade-ins and personalized watch sourcing. If you're searching for a specific reference that isn't currently in our inventory, we can leverage our extensive network of trusted collectors and dealers to source it, with projects beginning at $15,000.
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Frequently asked questions
We handle thousands of watches each year (and sell hundreds), that depth of hands-on experience, combined with extensive scholarship-is the foundation of our expertise.
Every timepiece is carefully examined to authenticate its components, evaluate its condition, and identify the details that define its significance. We stand behind every watch we offer with an unwavering commitment to quality, and complete transparency.
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95% of our sales are done remotely for the sake of our time (and yours). If you wish to see a watch in person, we charge a $500 non-refundable deposit to show the piece and can arrange to meet in CT, Manhattan or nearby after a security check is processed.
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If you see something you love but need extra time, a non-refundable 10% deposit can be submitted to take the watch off the market and held for 2 weeks until the balance is submitted.
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