Universal Genève were one of the many brands to give way to the quartz crisis but their quality and rich history have kept vintage watch collectors attention decades later. Arguably best known for their Compax chronographs - notably worn by Eric Clapton and Nina Rindt as well as their Polerouter - a Gérald Genta design at the young age of just 23, UG timepieces saw notable usage as tools and on the wrists of celebrated figures. Today, Breitling's acquisition and revival of the brand in '23 is bringing back more attention to the deeper cut brand that vintage enthusiasts love so much.

On offer is an incredibly beautiful automatic Calatrava ref. 20002 in steel, circa 1950s. What makes this piece so special is the applied Breguet numeral dial and sword style hands which, for many vintage connoisseurs is as good as it gets. This example has remained in fantastic vintage condition with a sharp, unpolished case and untouched dial showing minimal wear for its age. All of the radium lume has taken an attractive and even patina. Its fitted to a modern Private Eyes beads of rice to be paired with your favorite field jacket though it would be equally suited to be dressed up on leather with formal attire. 

Dial: Has some light service marks but presents very well and remains excellent overall, given its age. All of the radium plots are present and have aged to a nice patina. Hands: Are correct and matching. All of their lume is stable. Bezel: Remains sharp with no notable wear. Case: Appears unpolished with crisp edges and sharp lug holes. The caseback ref. number and serial are still visible which is rare very desirable to find in vintage UG. Unsigned crown. Crystal: Clear. Bracelet: Private Eyes beads of rice which matches perfectly. Accessories: The best conversation piece for miles. The movement is running well on our timegrapher and comes with our 6-month mechanical warranty.

Year/era: 1950s Reference: 20002 Serial: 150XXXX Dimensions: 33mm wide, 40mm lug to lug, 16mm lug width, 9mm thickness, including crystal. Movement: UG Bumper automatic.